Yuhu Village, Baisha Township, Yu Long County, Lijiang, Yunnan (丽江市玉龙县白沙乡玉湖村)
Up the 214 highway from Dali lies the busy tourist centre of Lijiang Old City, and a mere sixteen kilometres further is the much quieter administrative village of Yuhu (“Jade Lake”) comprising 357 households spread across nine hamlets (村民小组). Previously known as Xuesong village (雪嵩村), Yuhu was the home of Austrian-born American botanist and linguist Joseph Rock from 1922-1949. Ninety four percent of the population of 1,365 is Naxi. Set at the foot of Yulong Xueshan (玉龙雪山, “Jade Dragon Snow Mountain”), the village is a starting point for hikes or, more commonly, horse rides that take visitors up the mountain slopes.
The village receives more than 33,000 visitors a year. Luo Mingjun (罗明军), Project Assistant for the Centre for Community Development Studies at the Yunnan Academy of Social Sciences, estimates that tourism accounts for sixty percent of Yuhu’s income, followed by agriculture and animal husbandry, each accounting for about twenty percent. Unlike other villages considered in this report, where local people are less involved in the industry, most Yuhu residents consciously regard their village as involved in “eco-tourism.”
In May 2004 the Yuhu Tourism Development Cooperative (玉湖旅游开发合作社) was formed to develop tourism that protects natural resources and the local environment. It is largely managed by Village Committee members. The cooperative organizes households to take tourists up the mountain in turn. There are a total of 354 donkeys and horses registered in the scheme.
“We are a new socialist countryside pilot village project (社会主义新农村试点),” says He Jielin (和杰林), who is the head of one of the hamlets as well as a spokesperson for the cooperative. If Yuhu is successful, he says, it could serve as a model for other eco-tourist sites.
Tourists can choose to take a horse to 3,400, 4,400, or 4,800 meters, paying CNY 180 (USD 22), 300, or 350 respectively. The households who take the horses up then receive a cut: CNY 53, 80 or 100 respectively. CNY 2 goes to insurance, CNY 35 to management, a further portion to “market development fees,” and the remainder goes to special funds designated for university scholarships, a Senior Citizen Association (老年协会), public services (公共事业) such as mending roads, and management of the service centre (服务中心). Households make CNY 6-10,000 per horse per year (not counting the expense of maintaining their animals).
He Lushan (和继珍), The Nature Conservancy’s Lijiang Visitor Centre Project Coordinator, says that eco-tourism in Yuhu can and should develop further. When the villagers are the “principal parts” of the industry, they can gain an income while personally being responsible for the local environment, culture, and for the village’s future generations.
Lu Zhifeng (吕执风), a farmer and Naxi folk performer and singer, says that tourism transformed Yuhu. “We used to be very poor . . . we couldn’t farm enough for subsistence.” Locals cite sandy soil, diminishing water resources, poor climate and high elevation as the causes of farming difficulties. Lu estimates that farmers can only produce about 100-150 kilograms of grain per mu (亩,0.0667 hectares). He Cuigao (和翠高), another local, said that her family has twenty mu (1.34 hectares), but that only four or five mu are productive.
Although Lu Zhifeng cites the income benefits of tourism, there are some complaints about management of the cooperative. In June 2007, residents say, several official positions were added, making a total of twenty one posts in the cooperative. The office holders receive income from the management fees in addition to stipends for their village committee responsibilities. Many villagers feel that there are too many officials earning money that could go to the horse-owners.
He Jinyong (和近勇), a former Communist Party Secretary of the village, now offers six rooms in his village home-stay (农家乐). He suggests that the cooperative management fees should be slashed in half, allowing horse-owners to make more money. Though such issues can be raised in village meetings, he does not feel that his idea would ever be accepted by the cooperative managers.
Yuhu, moreover, does not control all of its tourism resources. It has three main attractions: Yuzhu Qingtian (玉柱擎天 “Jade Pillars that Prop Up the Sky”), Joseph Rock’s former residence, and Longnü Lake (龙女湖 “Daughter of the Dragon King”) The latter two have been contracted out to tourism companies that manage the sites and charge entrance fees. Luo Mingjun believes that villagers should be allowed to incorporate the spots into their horse treks.
For now, visitors are impressed with what Yuhu has to offer. Tao Yanzhen (陶焰真), a native of Lijiang’s Old Town, was surprised by her visit. “I never thought it would be so pretty . . . I hope it doesn’t open up too much. We should protect what it has been. The Old Town doesn’t have the same peace and quiet, there are too many tourists there.”
Saturday, August 8, 2009
shaxi: yunnan
Shaxi Township, Jianchuan County, Dali Bai Autonomous Prefecture, Yunnan (大理白族自治州剑川县沙溪镇)
Beginning in the Tang Dynasty the Southwest China Silk Road, also known as the Ancient Tea and Horse Caravan Trail (茶马古道), wound through Yunnan and Sichuan to Tibet and India. Different ethnic groups, among them Tibetan, Bai, and Hui, traded goods such as tea, horses, and salt. One of the major stop-off points along this route was located within Shaxi Township.
Tucked around the beautiful Hei Hui River (黑惠江), Shaxi valley boasts, among other sites, Tang dynasty grottoes in Stone Treasure Mountain (石宝山).
The township, as of 2004, has a population of 22,411 people, eighty five percent of whom are ethnic Bai. Sixteen natural villages (自然村) make up the township, and seventy percent of residents work in agriculture. Ouyang (欧阳), the locally-famous son of a caravan chief, summed up his fellow villagers in the following way: “What local people are accustomed to is farming . . . as long as there is food to eat, it is acceptable. So the people here are very honest, simple, and hardworking.”
In 2002, the World Monument Fund included Shaxi’s Sideng Market Area (寺登街) in its list of the world’s 101 Most Endangered Sites. Representatives of the Fund lamented the lack of due recognition of Shaxi’s history as well as physical damage caused during the pre-1949 civil war and later Cultural Revolution, especially to the now-rare local Bai architecture.
In response, the Swiss Federal Institute of Technology (ETH) and the People’s Government of Jianchuan County launched a joint USD 1.3 million Shaxi Valley Rehabilitation Project, which concluded in December 2006. This comprised six steps: marketplace restoration, historic village preservation, sustainable valley development, ecological sanitation, poverty alleviation, and dissemination of project activities and achievements. The ETH website states that one of the main goals of the plan was “encouraging responsible practices in cultural conservation, environmental protection, and eco-tourism.”
Yang Fubao (杨富宝), a Jianchuan County government official who worked on the project, says it is difficult to assess how much it accomplished. In terms of eco-tourism, he notes that there are no longer project funds to support longer term work. With slightly over 10,000 tourists a year—a rate that has not increased in the last two years—there is not enough business to justify government-sponsored eco-tourism activities.
Some locals are finding that eco-tourist activities can be profitable, however. Wu Yuxin (吴运鑫), a Jianchuan schoolteacher in Duan Jia Deng (段家登) village, three kilometers from Sideng, is currently building a guesthouse across from a 204-year-old pagoda and stage that was restored by the rehabilitation project. His English website advertises housing and services such as treks, fishing, and chances to teach English in the local elementary school. The great majority of his clients are foreigners.
Tourists who enjoy these quiet activities rarely appreciate an explosion in the number of like-minded travelers. Allen Zhang (张明健), a Chengdu native who has lived in a Shaxi guesthouse since February 2007, came seeking a peaceful place. He described the village’s tourists as “more educated and not part of tour groups . . . (They) do not have a big impact; they come quietly, and leave quietly.”
Zhang is building a bar in Shaxi but says that the village’s atmosphere is more important to him than making money. “If there is a large change [in tourist numbers], I will leave,” he says.
Lu Yuan, from the Yunnan Centre for Cultural Learning and Development, is also against rapid tourism development and commercialization: “Shaxi needs to go its own road . . . it can’t receive (too many tourists),” she says. Her NGO plans to train Shaxi locals as well receiving students and scholars studying agriculture and minority cultures.
Li Baosheng (李宝生) is a local resident who has been involved with Lu Yuan’s work in Shaxi since 2003. He chooses to concentrate on farming and raising livestock, and says that stagnating tourism would not worry him. However, like most Shaxi residents, he acknowledges the benefits that tourism has brought. Not only have there been improvements in the economy, but also in sanitation, trash disposal, roads, and infrastructure.
The county government is currently interested in developing not only tourism, but also Shaxi’s walnut, meat and dairy industries. In Yang Fubao’s opinion, “This is a coordinated development. You can’t put all your money into one industry . . . [we] need to develop everything—local people are, first of all, still farmers.”
Nonetheless, tourism is set to grow further. Transportation has been one of the main hindrances to Shaxi’s tourist development, Sideng being at least four hours’ drive from the prefectural centre, Dali. Now, the construction of the 214 national “should help the tourism of Shaxi and the whole of Jianchuan county,” predicts Yang.
Tuesday, May 13, 2008
you're here to be salt seasoning
i come back to reconnect, in the persona of a believer - i have been lost and wandering like the lamb on the edge of the cliff - as i drive past bella vista waters estate everything now seems familiar and comfortable - i connect with the large impressive houses - see their symmetry and order, their power to project the wealth and success that the lord can bring into my life - i see that there are few trees but this is good as their is no covering up of the architectural power that is on full show - the grand houses look down on the hillsong centre announcing its importance, its central place in hillsong life - i park my car and walk up to the centre - past thousands of fellow worshipers who have attended the early morning service this special mother's day - indian, african, chinese, korean, american-african, anglo-european, everybody with smiles and kids in tow - i see sami a young samoan woman that i worked with a three years ago - she is with beautiful child and handsome samoan husband - sami is shocked to see me - delightfully surprised that i had finally found my way to the source - i am honest and tell her that i am writing a story on the hillsong experience - that it is a phenomenon - sami says that she hopes i don't say anything bad - i say no i am just telling a story - we talk briefly about debord's spectacle and she says, yes it is quite a show, and laughs - they are very happy and very warm - the child clenches my finger, connecting - they hug me and shake my hand, connecting - i am early for the service - i collect my mothers day hillsong present at the door - a hillsong capture the moment specially packaged instant camera, so that i can capture the moment of this special day of celebration for the legend mums - her children call her blessed - the word smile written in english, italian, spanish, french, nowegian, german - no chinese, islamic, african, indian, islander - i sit down in the same place as my previous visit but this time there is no girl with lost eyes but a thin Indian man with a look of shellshock - hardened, determined and solitary - there is a clapping, and the choir and musicians advance onto the stage - the singing starts - the giant images flash up on the three twelve by three metre screens - the congregation down on the floor start clapping, singing loudly and jumping up and down in a moshpit of love and surrender - a pop concert rapture of sublime connection - this is a spectacle of lights, sound and images - the slogan welcome home in two metre letters - better one day spent in the house, than a thousand elsewhere - worshipers, warriors, making a difference in our community, building for the future, placing value on womanhood, championing the cause of the local church, to love mercy - the music is loud, an accelerated syncopated drum beat that accelerates into excited revery then slows to beautiful reflection - a sweet smell of teenage spirit - the church is christ's body - what was once the bread, the natural sustenance that sustained life has been replaced by the structure, the building the church, my home - the singing strengthens with everyone raising one, two hands to connect to the lord - sing to the lord, great is our god - and there on the screen the lesson for today, the humble but bold message - YOU'RE HERE TO BE SALT SEASONING - of course, we are just the seasoning on the body of christ - our prayers and faith season the lord - add flavour to the body of christ - just like we add salt seasoning to our roast dinners cooked in our beautiful kitchens in our beautiful houses - bella vista - bella food - there is a loud roar and clapping and brian graces the stage - he talks of miracles and prayers - cancer, hemorrhages - cured - brian tells us that women are good at receiving and giving - they just get on with it - and now we should give - we have freely received and now we should freely give - cheques made out to hillsong are especially generous - generosity that transforms - small cute children of the congregation give big screen testimonials and presents are given out - even a darrel lea mothers day bag - we are shown more ads of future eventful events - this is all about the experience - all about the spectacle - we are coming for the event - the event is the rapture - the experience is the connection of experiencing the sublime feeling of the lord - wrapped up in a total environment where everything makes sense - there is no questioning, only acceptance, love and affirmation - pure concentrated energy directed at the worshipper - there is no dissent, no dialogue , no dialectic, no critical theory - only the answer - a positivist conversation - on the journey of faith - redemption is immediate and complete - the final prayer has come - those of us that have lost our way and need to reconnect are asked to raise our hands high in the air - i raise my hand - i feel the connection with the lord - i feel five thousand people praying for my salvation - i am redeemed - a bible is placed in my hand by david who is so happy that i have chosen the first step on a journey that will completely change my life - i am asked to enrol in a free 3-week course, RECONNECTION - david invites me back to the welcome lounge after the sermon - sharleen feeds me grapes and cakes and orange juice - tom welcomes me and tells me he was once a catholic - he belonged to a religion - but hillsong is not a religion - there are no rules and laws here to interfere - there is just a direct connection with god - david reconnected three yearss ago - two weeks later he closed his eyes and saw jesus standing with all the people david needed to forgive - david's wife just felt god's presence - i sip my gloria jeans coffee, i gulp down my grapes - i promise to return, to take up my new course, everyone smiles and congratulates me on my momentous decision - walking back i have accidently parked in the handicap parking space - thirty three miles from sydney and a thousand miles from care - manly and baulkam hills - i text my friend that i am safe - safe from what - safe from brian, safe from his wife bobby who i have never met, safe from robert, the used car salesman - safe from being being transformed into salt seasoning on the spoils of war - jesus loves me yes he does, why because the bible tells me so - the bible that was once called the bible now rests on my dashboard rebranded - abundant life new testament
Monday, January 7, 2008
kfc, bank lunches and pigeons
7 january
8 january morning train to harbin
men walking cows in the snow – strong orange sun rising in birch trees – clumps of small cottages white snow bound with puffs of smoke coming from each chimney – fields tilled with fresh snow – black bird slowly flying south against white ground – east orange turning to pink in west – factories belching black smoke into clean blue morning air – haystacks drooping under their own wet weight – black birds settling in white snow – long brick red factory walls – lines through the landscape – air smelling of morning snow and sweet chinese hot milk breakfast – dozens of cottages surrounding factories like nineteenth century England – over and over – everyone quiet reading newspapers on their bunks or smoking in the carriage way – everyone with a mobile phone – radio blaring with chinese noise - - cows in line eating leftover corn stalks
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